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The capital of the French province of Lorraine, Nancy is one of the loveliest cities in France. Unlike Alsace, which was at one time ruled by Rome and Germany, Nancy has always been French.
Lorraine's powerful dukes ruled from Nancy, and today, the city is a mecca for lovers of Art Nouveau. But there's also plenty of medieval architecture to enjoy.
Place Stanislas is the heart of the city. Stanislas was an exiled Polish King who became Duke of Lorraine in 1737. The formal Place that bears his name is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it's a masterpiece of 19th-century urban design. It separates the medieval Ville Vielle from the Ville Neuve, which has buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries.
There's a Sound and Light show at Place Stanislas on summer nights,
The Place has impressive buildings on all sides -- the City Hall or Hotel de Ville, the Fine Arts Museum, the Grand Hotel, and the Opera House. It's surrounded by gilded, wrought-iron gates. Art lovers should visit the Musee des Beaux Arts, which has a solid collection of 15th to 20th-century European paintings, including work by Caravaggio, Delacroix, Manet, and Rubens.
Nancy France Art Nouveau.
The Musee des Beaux Arts on Place Stanislas is also one of the best places in town to see Nancy glass in the Art Nouveau style. A Nancy museum pass will pay for itself in savings if you visit two of Nancy's museums.
The Musee de l'Ecole de Nancy (the Museum of the Nancy School) is also included in the museum pass. It's a must-do for Art Nouveau fans. Emile Galle, the renowned glass artist, founded the school in 1901. Artists came from all across France to train here, and at the turn of the century, Nancy was the artistic equal of Paris.
The museum is a long walk from Place Stanislas, but public transportation is available. It's located in the former fin-de-siecle home of a wealthy department store magnate. You'll see glassware, furniture, fabrics, and jewelry designed by Galle, Majorelle, and other Art Nouveau luminaries.
Majorelle's villa is also in the neighborhood. Designed by Henri Sauvage in 1901, it has stained-glass windows created by Jacques Gruber in the Japonism style. The villa is another one of Nancy's Art Nouveau treasures.
Avenue Foch has several beautiful buildings at 41, 69, and 71. See the Tourist Information Office on Place Stanislas for directions to more.
Other Nancy France attractions.
Located in the old ducal palace, The Musee Historique Lorraine dates back to the 13th century. In addition to treasures of the Dukes, including 16th-century tapestries, you'll see sculpture from the medieval and Renaissance periods, paintings by Georges de la Tour, and the Dukes' ceremonial hall.
Shoppers should head to rue Gambetta or rue des Dominicains for stylish gifts and housewares. Rue Stanislas is good for antiques. Or check out the carousel and small zoo at Le Pepiniere, a 53-acre park.
Many of Nancy's best cafes are near Place de la Carriere. For more Art Nouveau design, have dinner at l'Excelsior. Restaurant le Foy and Le Capucin Gourmand are also great choices.
If you're staying overnight, the Grand Hotel de la Reine is right on Place Stanislas. There's no better location in Nancy France. The charming Hotel de Guise is located in an old restored townhouse and the Hotel des Prelats is in an old clerical house near the main square.
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